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EMERGENCY REPAIRS
Tool and Supply Checklist:
- Basic tool kit
- Coolant
- Tire chains
- Battery terminal spray
- Motor oil
- Rubber mallet
- Brake fluid
- Duct tape
- Jumper cables
- Clamps
- Wheel chocks
- Ballast
As the saying goes, An ounce of prevention is
worth a pound of cure," and this is especially true
for your car. The best way to avoid road emergencies is to be familiar with your vehicle and perform
regular maintenance and inspections. Read your
owner's manual and keep it in the vehicle for reference. Regularly check the tires, fluid levels, hoses,
and belts. Use the engine oil, fluids, and fuel recommended by the manufacturer, and refuel when
you are down to a quarter tank. Be sure fog lights
and other accessories are installed properly to
prevent the engine from overheating. Of course,
emergencies cannot always be prevented; this
project is designed to help you deal with them when they do occur.
EMERGENCY TOOLS
FOR YOUR CAR
Following is a list of basic emergency tools that
should be kept in your car at all times, The time to plan for emergency situations is before they occur,
and these items will get you through many emergencies that otherwise would leave you stranded
and helpless.
- Basic tool kit (wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers,
etc.)
- Spare tire with jack and lug wrench
- Tire inflator
- Fire extinguisher
- First aid kit
- Jumper cables
- Flashlight
- Road flares and distress flags
- Fuses
- Tire gauge
- Duct tape
- Owner's manual
- Wire
WARNING LIGHTS
When trouble strikes while driving, pull off to the
side of the road as far as possible and turn off the
engine. Never turn off the engine or remove the
key while the vehicle is still rolling to a stop; many
cars have steering wheels that lock, which could
cause you to lose control. Turn on the hazard
lights immediately and keep all passengers in the
car unless there are signs of smoke or fire. Open
the hood and tie a distress flag to the antenna or
drivers door handle to alert other motorists.
Position flares as follows: one 100 feet behind
the car, one 100 feet ahead of the car, and another
10 feet behind the left rear corner of the car. If the
vehicle is blocking a travel lane, place flares ahead
of and behind the car in the center of the lane.
Most importantly, stay calm-panicking will only
make the situation worse.
Oftentimes the first indication of trouble is when
a warning light goes on. Here's what to do when
you spot one of those ominous flashes of red:
Coolant Temperature
Warning Light
1. Check for worn or broken belts, replace as
needed.
2. Check the radiator and hoses for leaks and
bad clamp connections. Damaged hoses can be
temporarily taped and clamps can be repaired.
3. If steam is observed, this probably means lost
coolant in the radiator. After the engine has
cooled, slowly remove the radiator cap and add
coolant or warm water.
WARNING: Stay clear of the radiator fan. Until
the coolant temperature drops, the fan can switch
on even with the ignition off. Allow the engine to
cool before touching anything.
Alternator Warning Light
Check for worn or broken belts; replace as
needed.
Oil Warning Light
1. Check the oil level by removing the dipstick
and wiping it dry. Put it back in, then remove it
again to make the reading.
2. Do not drive the car any further if the oil is
low. Add oil before restarting the car.
3. When the light blinks and an alarm sounds,
this means you have overtaxed the engine. Turn it
off and allow it to cool.
Brake Warning Light
1. Check the brake fluid; it can be found in a
small container near the rear of the engine compartment on the drivers side. The two
chambers
should be filled to within 1/2" from the top. If the
level is low, do not drive the car any further until
you have added brake fluid.
2. if your car has drum brakes, pumping the
brake pedal can give added stopping power; with
disc brakes, hold down the pedal to stop the car.
3. Allow the brakes to cool, since the problem
could be simple overuse. When cool, test them
cautiously.
NOTE: In case of total brake failure, use the
emergency brake or try downshifting the car several gears. Do not continue to drive the vehicle.
Oxygen Sensor Light
This is a reminder to have the emission control
system serviced. It is not an emergency.
BATTERY PROBLEMS
One of the main culprits that can prevent a car
from starting is the battery. Before working on the
battery, disconnect the ground cable.
1. Check for cracks, loose terminal posts, and
other signs of damage. Any of these means the
battery must be replaced.
2. Check for worn or broken cables and connectors and replace them.
3. Check for loose or corroded connections at
both terminals; tighten or clean as needed. To
clean, use a brush and baking soda and water solution, then apply battery terminal spray for
protection. Re-connect the ground cable.
4. Check the fluid level. Add water (distilled, if
possible) to the cells if the battery is not
maintenance-free; otherwise, take it to a dealer.
If a battery charger is not available, you will have
to jump start your car from another vehicle's battery in order to start the engine. Be sure you have
a good, long pair of jumper cables; they cost a little more, but they will prove their worth when you
need them.
1. Position the two cars so that the cables reach
from the battery of one car to the battery of the
other. Make sure the cars do not touch.
2. Locate the positive (+) terminal on both batteries and attach a cable between them.
3. Connect one end of the other cable to the
negative terminal of the good battery.
4. Connect the other end of the cable to a good
ground connection under the hood of the disabled
car. (A bolt on the engine is a good spot.)
5. Start the car with the good battery and let the
engine run for a minute. After making sure all
lights and accessories are turned off, start the disabled car. If excessive sparking occurs. check the
cable polarity; the cables may have been hooked
up in reverse order.
WARNING: Do not smoke when working around
batteries. Battery gas can explode, and the acid
will burn skin and clothing. If you come In contact
with the acid, immediately rinse with cold water
and call a doctor if necessary.
CHOKE PROBLEMS
Sometimes a vehicle will not start because the
choke is stuck or improperly adjusted. Remove the
air cleaner cover to locate the choke plate. If the
choke is stuck, press it open manually, then re-
place the air cleaner cover. If the choke is opening
too slowly or too quickly, it must be adjusted. As a
general rule, the leanest setting that will start the
engine and keep it running is best.
CHANGING A FLAT TIRE
If your car suddenly begins to pull to the left or
right and you feel you are losing control, chances
are one of your tires Is going flat. Pull over to the
shoulder immediately; trying to drive any further
will only ruin the tire and/or the rim.
1. Park on a level surface. Set the emergency
brake and block the tires so the vehicle does not
roll.
2. Have all passengers exit the vehicle.
3. Pry off the hubcap with the flat end of the
jack handle. (Hubcaps on more expensive cars
cannot be pried off; instead, they are removed
with a special wrench that is supplied with the
vehicle.)
4. Loosen all lug nuts or bolts one full turn with
a lug wrench; four-in-one lug wrenches provide
the best leverage. Check thread direction (right or
left) as indicated by "R" or "L" on the stud. Keep in
mind that 'R" and "L" refer to the tightening direction of the bolts, not the loosening direction.
5. Refer to the owner's manual for proper lift
point and jacking procedure, then jack the car up
so the tire just clears the ground.
6. Remove all lug nuts or bolts and put them in
the hubcap.
7. Pull off the flat tire and replace with the spare.
8. Put the lug nuts or bolts back on and tighten.
9. Jack the car down slowly.
10. Tighten the lug nuts using the sequence that applies to your vehicle.
11. Replace the hubcap using a rubber mallet to
tap it into place.
12. Check the air pressure on the newly mount-
ed tire.
NOTE: Knowing how to change a flat is of no
use if you do not have a usable spare to replace it.
Make sure your spare is properly inflated at all
times.
FREEING A STUCK VEHICLE
Although having your car stuck fast in snow or
mud when you are alone can create a desperate
feeling of helplessness, it is important not to panic
and step down hard on the gas pedal. Far from
getting you going, this will only result in spinning
wheels. If you feel your wheels spinning at all, take
your foot off the pedal immediately, or soon you
will be in a hole from which only a tow truck will
be able to rescue you.
1. Clear the snow or mud from around the tires
and under the car. Straighten the front wheels.
2. Spread salt, sand, or cat litter around the
drive wheels if you are stuck in snow; for mud, use
hay, straw, or a board. (Remember that many cars
are front-wheel drive.) Newspaper, twigs, and
gravel may also be used if the other items are not
available.
3. Gently rock the vehicle by shifting back and
forth between a low forward gear and reverse. This
rocking may generate the traction and forward
momentum needed to free the vehicle.
4. Add weight over the drive axle for better traction, but do not place the weight too far back in
the trunk.
5. If the previous measures do not work, tire
chains will probably be needed on the drive
wheels,
WATER-FLOODED ENGINES
Always try to avoid puddles; they're often deeper
than you think and can flood the engine and stall
your car. If it does stall, immediately turn on the
hazard lights. After exiting the water, test your
brakes at a slow speed, because they might have
lost their holding power. Lightly pump the brakes
to dry them. If braking power has been affected,
pull off the road and wait about 5 minutes, then
repeat the procedure. If this still doesn't work,
there could be something more serious wrong with
the brakes. Wait for help, and do not drive the car
any further.
WIPER FAILURE
1. Turn off the wipers and stop the car.
2. After waiting a few minutc3, try the wipers
again.
3. If the wipers still do not work, check for loose
wiring or a blown fuse.
HEADLIGHT FAILURE
1. Turn on your fog or hazard lights until you
reach a safe area to pull over.
2. Check for a blown fuse.
REPLACING A FUSE
1. Check your owner's manual for the location
of the fuse block and for the fuse listing.
2 Locate the blown fuse; it can usually be spotted because of its burnt metal strip.
3. Remove the blown fuse using a fuse puller. if
you do not have one, use a clip, stick, or half of a
hinged clothespin.
4. Be sure to replace it with a fuse of equal amp
rating. Press the new fuse into position with your
finger.
A FINAL RECOMMENDATION
In most cases, with the right tools and a little
knowledge, you can temporarily correct your car's
problem-at least long enough to get it to a service
station for professional help. Even if you are satisfied with your emergency repair job, it's still a
good idea to have it looked at by a professional
mechanic at your earliest convenience to make
sure the problem has been resolved.
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